WHAT IT IS LIKE TO HIKE LAGUNA 69
When I started dreaming of Peru, my mind immediately went to rainbow mountains and Macchu Picchu. Whispers of fellow travellers along the way lead me to the bustling town of Huaraz, the base of many extraordinary hikes and trails across the Cordillera Blanca. Picture yourself looking down at dazzling turquoise waters lying beneath cascading waterfalls and gorgeous glaciers, occasionally hearing the loud thunder of a distant avalanche.
It's no wonder that Laguna 69 is at the top of any hikers list visiting Huaraz and not to be missed.
Acclimatisation + Altitude
This is important!
Laguna 69 is 4650m high. Altitude sickness becomes an issue at around 3000m and up.
It can be challenging and the altitude is not to be taken lightly. Luckily I had acclimatised in Bolivia (and even fallen sick). However, if it is your first time at altitude, it's important to spend the first couple of days allowing your body to adapt and acclimatise. There are a number of trails you can do that are easier and recommended before attempting Laguna 69, including Wilcacocha which you can do for 1 sole. Laguna Churup is also recommended, as is Laguna Paron. Be as prepared as possible to allow yourself to have the best experience whilst hiking.
Handy tips for acclimatisation:
Medication is one way to acclimatise quickly. Just be wary that some meds have side effects that are a bit of a nuance when you're at high altitude.
Give your body the time it needs to adapt. If I'm going to be honest, it was only after getting sick from the altitude in Copacabana that I felt fully acclimatised. Rather than pushing myself to do the hikes around Lake Titicaca, I descended 300m to La Paz and could feel my body adjust and get better almost straight away! It's amazing the difference a few hundred metres makes!
Chew on coca leaves and drink coca leaf tea.
If you're having a lot of difficulties, altitude sickness can become serious. It's always best to give your body time and if in doubt descend.
There were many people who came off the tour buses to hike Laguna 69 however not everyone made it to the top. If you're having difficulty, speak to your tour guide and they'll suggest an alternative route and a lake close by.
What you can expect when hiking Laguna 69
When you enter the national park, the views are stunning. And you've barely not even started yet!
If you're taking a tour, you'll have 3 hours for the climb and 2 hours for the decent, leaving you with one hour at the top. A hike like this at sea level would be much easier and you'd do it a lot faster. However, at altitude, you'll be likely to stop for breaks and with many photo opportunities on the way up, it'll be totally worth it taking the extra time!
The first part is relatively easy. Once you begin climbing, there be a slow and gradual ascent.
You'll pass lakes, wildlife, waterfalls and streams. For myself, it was a moderate to slightly difficult hike, mainly due to the altitude.
You'll get to a point where you think it's the top. It's not. There'll be a sign pointing you in the direction of another hour of hiking. Probably the hardest part.
I completed it in 2.5 hours, which left plenty of time to explore and each lunch. At the top, you realise just how worth it really is!!
How to get there
There are three main options for getting to Laguna 69.
#1. A guided tour: 25-30 soles
I researched every possible way to get to Laguna 69 as I'm really not the biggest fan of doing organised tours. In this scenario, it seemed to be the cheapest way to get there from Huaraz. I booked through my hostel,Casa de Ana B&B.
A guided tour is not really a guided tour in the sense that you have someone hikes with you. It's really an organised bus that will pick you up from your hostel, drive you to Laguna 69 and then take you back.
The drive there and back is around 3-4 hours each way form Huaraz so it's a long day if you add the time it takes to hike.
Just be aware that if you're not back at the bus on time, it will leave!
#2. Go solo
If you're really keen on doing it on your own, you can take a collectivo in the early hours of the morning to Yungay. From Yungay you can either take another collectivo to Laguna 69 or a taxi. Just be aware that collectivos on the return are scarce and you might just be haggling for a seat on a tour bus.
The second way to do it is to stay overnight in Yungay and organise a taxi or take an early collectivo to Laguna 69.
#3. Take a taxi from Huaraz
The cost is around 200 soles. If you're in a group then it'll be worth it. If you're travelling solo, it may be a little steep unless you really want to avoid people :). Your hostel will be able to provide you with more information on booking a private taxi.
In addition to the price of transport you choose to arrive, the national park also has an entry fee of 30 soles payable on arrival or to your tour guide.
What to carry
Bring plenty of food, water and snacks. If you're doing a tour, you will stop by a breakfast place in the morning in case you don't have time.
Be prepared for all types of weather. I was hot and sweaty on the way up. It snowed on the way down.
Bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat!
Also, I always buytravel insuranceand make sure that any hiking activities are covered.
Some hikers also climbed with hiking poles. You can normally rent them at around 5 soles either from your hostel or an agency in town.
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