ROUGH GUIDE TO SUCRE: BOLIVIA'S WHITE CITY
One might think that the more I travel, the shorter my bucket-list becomes. Yet every time I visit a new city or country, that list just seems to be ever growing. Stretching my legs in Sucre after a 9-hour rugged bus journey, a brief stop-over turned into a 12-day stay with a list of local recommendations that seemed to be an absolute must-do!
Sucre, also known as the White City of Bolivia, really is one of the most postcard-perfect towns I have visited so far on my travels in South America. A quiet, relaxed elegance coupled with grand churches and cathedrals dating back to the 16th century, a rich heritage of colonial architecture and vibrant population. Nestled at 2800 metres, you may begin to huff and a puff a little as you wander over the hills.
Oh, and a true fact... if you thought La Paz is the capital of Bolivia, think again... Independence was proclaimed in Sucre and forms the constitutional capital, La Paz is the seat of the government.
I spent my mornings sipping on freshly squeezed orange juice. I wandered the markets seeking fresh local produce. Haggled somewhat unsuccessfully. Enrolled in private Spanish classes that made a world of difference to my ability to talk to locals. I wandered aimlessly around churches and historical buildings. Enjoyed sunsets and lemonades over Mirador de la Recoleta. Watched the serene city of Sucre transform as it celebrated the Virgen de Guadalupe Festival. I ventured to the Tarabuco market. Explored down narrow streets, under grand arches, off the path and over the hills filling up my memory cards whilst soaking in the city's beauty.
Here are my recommendations of things to do. The list is by no means exhaustive but an insight into the true faces of Sucre.
Rooftops!
Wander the streets and explore
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, Sucre is unbelievably photogenic. Founded by the Spanish in the 16th century the blend of colonial and local traditions and styles are found on almost every corner. Passing ancient churches and bell towers, hobbling over cobbled streets, wandering down narrow allies, I couldn't help but admire the city's rugged charm and grace.
Stunning bell towers and who can resist taking a picture of a photogenic door?!
Watch the sun descend into the mountains
Mirador de la Recoleta is one of the best places to get a view of the city whilst enjoying a good book, lemonade and simply gazing at your beautiful surroundings. It's grand terrace, fine arches and beautiful panoramic view of the city is the perfect stopping point for an afternoon.
Views from Mirador de la Recoleta
Sunset over Sucre
Try some Chirimoya
A tropical South Americal fruit, you're liking to have a Cholita or two try to sell you one in the local market. Sweet and refreshing, if you're in the Central Market, why not try a Chirimoya smoothie? The fruit itself is around 10B, and most likely if you're hovering around one of the fruit stalls in the centre of the market, one of the vendors will be more than happy to let to have a free taste.
Yummy!
As you wander around the market and receive varying prices, it's good to get your haggling skills into practice although they may not go very far. I mentioned to my Spanish teacher how much I was paying for fruit and vegetables and she was not impressed. We spent the next morning walking around together where unsurprisingly I bought much more for less than half of what I was paying before.
A good tip is instead of asking for 4 tomatoes and then asking "how much"?
It's better to say "tomates por favor". When they ask how many, reply with how much you're willing to pay. "2 Bolivianos, por favor".
Visit San Felipe de Neri
For gorgeous rooftop views over Sucre, San Felipe de Neri will not disappoint. Built in the 18th century, its decedent church, ceramic tiles, grand arches and 360-degree panoramic views show off Sucre's serene beauty!
The White City of Bolivia!
Those arches!
Learning Spanish in Sucre
Sucre is a famous starting point for brushing up on your Spanish on your Latin American adventure. There are a number of schools that offer classes. The two most recommended I found were Me Gusta and Continental Spanish schools.
I did private lessons at Me Gusta where you have a choice of either doing private lessons or group lessons. They provide all the course materials and also organise social events such as cooking classes and tours around the city.
Virgen de Guadalupe Festival In Sucre
Each year in September the serene city of Sucre transforms into a huge street party where Bolivians from all over the travel to dance, party, elaborately dress up, sing, clap, cheer and drum out music all day, all night and into the early hours of the morning, in honour of the Virgin de Guadalupe, the patron saint of Sucre.
In the run-up to the weekend of festivities, you might catch a glimpse of dancers and bands, gathering in the streets on the weekends, practising traditional and folklore dances. The weekend itself, children, teenagers, adults gather together and perform through a 7km stretch through the city. It was amazing to be able to experience the euphoric atmosphere of the celebrations! Dining out on local street cuisine with piercing fireworks into the early hours of the morning.
Dressed in traditional costumes celebrating their rich diversity
Dancers from all over Bolivia joined the festivities
Tarabuco Market
Located 60km outside of Sucre, Tarabuco Market is easy to visit on your own without needing to do a tour. Much of this market has now been catered for tourists, however walking deeper into the market you'll experience a more local scene. Every Sunday, local communities gather to sell almost anything and everything which forms the backbone of their income.
To get there, Tarabuco Market has its own bus station from Sucre "Parada a Tarabuco". Walking from my hostel, Celtic Cross, it's about a 25-minute walk. Buses leave every 5-10 minutes and you can't really miss them shouting "Tarabuco!". It takes around 90 minutes one-way and 10B. You can also do a tour, most hostels offer this for around 40B.
Tarabuco Market
Views into the desert behind the market
Where to eat
Sucre does not fail to disappoint when it comes to cuisine. I'd highly recommend trying Papas Rellenas, which are like very large deep-fried croquettes normally stuffed with either eggs, cheese or meat. At the crossroads of Calle Batalla de Junin and Hernando Slles, walking down from Me Gusta Spanish school, you cross the road, turn right and there is a wonderful lady that sells delicious Papas Rellenas for 4/5B.
El Germin, probably one of my favourite vegetarian restaurants I have come across so far do a 3-course lunch each day for 24B. Their veggie Mac and cheese is absolutely delicious!!
The Central market is the perfect place to try an array of local cuisine! I highly recommend trying sopa de mani at one of the stalls or just wandering around and seeking what takes your fancy!
Oh... and how could I forget Salteñas! At El Patio Salteñeria, they're around 8B a Salteña and delicious. I also enjoyed empanadas off the street outside my Spanish school for 3B. Slightly missing the empanadas from Argentina, I couldn't wait to stuff my face again!
Sweet!
Where to stay
I few recommendations for Sucre as I happened to move around a lot. During the festival weekend, accommodation booked up quickly and I found myself scrambling for a place to stay.
Jorges Sucre:If you enjoy staying with local families then this may be for you. Jorge's family were wonderful and not to mention it forced me to practice my Spanish. His 3-storey home overlooks a beautiful view of Sucre with a wonderful terrace to enjoy a cup of tea. Guests have their own fully equipped kitchen and it was one of the best places in Sucre for wifi.Check out the latest prices and availability here.
7 Patas Hostel: Beautifully decorated, the courtyard is the perfect place to relax and met some fellow travellers. Hosting dorm rooms and privates, it's perfect for solo travellers and couples. I stayed in a private room with great hot showers and comfy beds. The kitchen can get a little busy, although it's great to hear what fellow travellers have been up to for the day. For more info on prices, you can find out here.
The Celtic Cross:Maybe one of my favourites, the new owner is busy renovating, building new beds and replacing old mattresses. It has by far the best kitchen in a hostel, with a brand new 5-burner gas cooker. Socialable and friendly, the owner is always there to give you tips and advice.Check out the reviews here.
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Bus connections
Sucre is really well connected. The bus companies Copacabana and El Dorado were recommended to me overnight from Sucre to La Paz. Prices ranged from 140-180 Bolivianos.
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