W CIRCUIT PATAGONIA : IS IT WORTH $1000?
If you're heading to Torres del Paine in Patagonia, then you've more than likely heard a thing or two about the W Circuit, Patagonia. Over 80km, if you're brave enough to enter its wilderness then you're in for a hike of a lifetime.
Everything from the soaring pillars of the base towers, to the thundering cracks of Valle Frances and shimmering dominance of Glacier Grey, there's no end to the stunning beauty of Patagonian landscapes.
If you're an experienced hiker in good shape, then you'll perhaps want to consider hiking the O Circuit. For novices like myself or those with a shorter time scale, the W Circuit is perfect to get a little taster of everything. This was my first multi-day hike where I'd be hiking solo without the help of a guide or a group cheering me on. One might say I was a tad bit nervous by it.
The W Circuit is one of the hardest treks I've done. Physically exhausting it was mentally challenging. When you're on the trek, regardless of how tired you are, you only have one choice and that's to step one foot in front of the other. For the most part I hiked solo, stopping as I wished to admire the surrounding beauty. It felt like a dream.
There's something therapeutic about hiking solo, it's almost like a meditation. Switched off from the world, I became very comfortable in my own company. It was me and Patagonia and I wouldn't have had it any other way.
Lake Nordenskjöld
Torres del Paine
Some quick facts about the W Circuit:
The W Circuit is approximately 80km in distance, although it is possible to hike more than this if you choose to go to the suspension bridges further up for a better view of Glacier Grey or if like me you get lost.
The trek is typically done in either 3 nights/4 days or 4 nights/5 days.
There are options to camp at designated camp sites or stay in a dorm bed for each of the nights in the park.
Hiking from east to west or from west to east really doesn't make a whole load of difference, provided you are able to turn your head.
The trek includes hiking to the Base Towers, Valle Frances, Mirador Britanico, hiking along Lake Nordenskjöld and Glacier Grey.
The difficulty of the trek is considered easier than the O Circuit however it still requires a reasonable level of fitness.
The cost of hiking the W Circuit
The cost of hiking the W Circuit will vary depending on your needs for comfort. Camping with your own equipment is much cheaper than camping with equipment provided or sleeping in a dorm bed. There are also some free designated campsites with basic facilities which must be booked in advance.
Food in the park is expensive, so if you're budget-sensitive self-catering is also an option. Keep in mind that some campsites such as Chileno do not allow open fires or cooking on site. So you may have to get creative.
The more you can carry, the cheaper your trek will be. The handy part about doing the W Circuit is that often you can leave your main backpack at the campsites, hike with your day bag to the Base Towers, Valle Frances and Glacier Grey, and only carry your gear to the next campsite you'll be staying in.
To book your accommodation options in advance:
Refugio's Chileno, Torres Central, Cuernos and Francés, book with Fantastico Sur.
The free campsite Italiano is managed by CONAF.
Paine Grande and Refugio Grey are bookable with Vertices.
To give you an idea of where to book your nights:
I did two nights in Chileno, one night in Francés and one night in Paine Grande.
A girl I met did one night in Chileno, one night in Francés and one night in Paine Grande.
Or you could do two nights in Central, one night in Cuernos and one night in Paine Grande.
Another girl I met did one night in Central, two in Francés and on her last day, hiked all the way to the second suspension bridge located north of Refugio Grey and back to catch the 6:30pm catamaran. Anything is possible!!
Handy tip: If you choose to stay in Refugio Grey, you have the option of doing extra activities such as kayaking along Glacier Grey.
For a map of the W Circuit and distances, you can check it out here.
End of day 2!
Booking a program to hike the W-Circuit
As I mentioned, the more you can carry and camp, the cheaper your trek will be. I showed up in Puerto Natales with zero expectations of doing the W Circuit. Asking agencies around town about the options available, they're pretty limiting. Either a one day tour around the park or a one day tour to the base towers. Neither seemed appealing.
I tried my luck with Fantastico Sur (the main operator, 3/4 nights must be booked through them), 99.9% certain they would tell me everything is fully booked on the W Circuit. Boy, was I wrong! It was the beginning of December and they had space for a whole week.
Given the fact that I was booking the last minute, my options were either doing the entire W Circuit, camping with equipment or sleeping in a full bed. I could either book each night separately and then hope that Vertices have a spot available to book. Or I could book a program which saved me the effort of swinging between two companies in the hope of coordinating my dates.
After spending two days thinking about whether I'd even be capable of doing the trek, I took the leap. I went for the program. Paid $1090 upfront. Four nights, full board, in a full bed.
As a novice hiker, going solo into Patagonia, carrying camping equipment or even food which would weigh me down and would make it that much harder for me to complete the trek. I only wanted to think about one thing and that was getting to the next destination. With a lightish backpack, hiking poles, a decent pair of hiking boots and a camera, I set off, not really knowing what to expect.
NB: You can hike the W-Circuit and stay at the free campsites which are booked at least 4-6 months in advance. If you're camping (especially with your own equipment), it's still a good idea to book 3-4 months in advance, and the trek will be a lot cheaper. Rates go from $20 (no equipment and no food) at night to $180 a night full board in a full-made bed.
If you're not one to book in advance (aka last minute), you're likely to only have the most expensive options available on the program. Be sure to book with Fantastico Sur, Conaf or Vertices, as third party agencies can't always guarantee you a spot even if you book with them.
The morning of my hike!Day 1: Puerto Natales to Refugio Chileno
There's one thought that was going through my mind that morning I left for the W Circuit...
'Why??!!'
Freaked out... I headed to the bus station. Nerves rattling through my body. To the amusement of my roommate, I had spent 5 hours packing and unpacking the contents of my backpack that morning.
With the aim of surviving, I stocked up on as much chocolate as possible and boarded the bus to Torres del Paine.
Did I make the right decision?!
What was I thinking of paying $1000 for a trek?!
As the bus edged closer to the park and the mountains came into view, excitement kicked in.
And it begins...
Knocked over by the wind many times, the wind pass on the way to Chileno should really be renamed to hurricane pass or something more fitting.
As I arrived at Chileno, I breathed a sigh of relief. The first day had been a taster of what's to come over the next 3 days. With a welcome drink in hand, I cheered to the small but sweet success. I was in Torres del Paine and embarking on a hike of a lifetime.
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
Chilling at Refugio Chileno
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
Refugio Chileno
Day 2: Refugio Chileno to the Base Towers
Leaving early at 6:30 am with my breakfast packed up, the hike to the Base Towers was a relatively easy hike from Chileno. A total distance of 8km, 2 hours up and 2 hours down. If you're hiking all the way down from Central, then you'll be doing almost double the distance, so a lot more challenging.
The trail is marked every step of the way. The first hour is through the forest where you can stock up on freshwater from the streams. The second part is zigzagging up, around and over the boulders. I bumped into some hikers on the way up who were coming back down after having seen the sunrise. Their faces grinned widely.
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
The hiking trail is in there somewhere!
Getting closer, the Base Towers were still visible and the sun shone over the glistening turquoise lake. I made it! And. It. Was. Stunning!
Having set off early, I enjoyed the Base Towers before the crowds of day hikers started arriving. I also got to experience the Base Towers before a snowstorm arrived.
One minute the Base Towers beamed over the shimmering lake, the next they were covered by clouds.
W Circuit Torres del Paine Patagonia
Torres del Paine Base Towers
You just never know what to expect in Patagonia!
As the fog and clouds loomed, the temperature dropped drastically and I headed back down to Chileno to spend my second night. I could slightly feel my left knee from climbing the boulders but it was nothing serious.
Refugio Chileno had a small and intimate feel. At dinner I met some hikers and shared stories of our travels before heading to bed for an early night, ready to tackle the next day.
Day 3: Chileno to Refugio Francés
Setting off at 7:30am, the sun beamed down. Ten minutes into the hike, I was delayering. No wind, blue skies and sunshine, it was the perfect day in Patagonia.
Strolling through rivers, hopscotching over mud swamps, sunbathing on the beach, I strolled along taking my time and snapping away.
Every perspective of Lake Nordenskjöld was worth stopping for.
At the end of the 20km, there's nothing better than dipping your feet into a fresh cold lake!
Refugio Francés was definitely my favourite. The showers were hot and clean. Each dome was like a little private house overlooking the lake. Comfy and really sore, I slept like a baby until my 5am wake up.
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
Beautiful day!
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
The beach!
Day 4: Refugio Francés -> Valle Frances -> Mirador Britanico -> Paine Grande.
Leaving at 6am, heading to Valle Frances and Mirador Britanico, I did the impossible. Yep... despite all the words of encouragement that you can't get lost on a well marked trail, I got lost not once but twice!
From the thundering roars of avalanches on Valle Frances to the blustery winds at Mirador Britanico, day 4 was hard.
Coming back down to camp site Italiano, I had lunch with some hikers, giving my feet a much needed rest. Picking up my big backpack I set off to Paine Grande.
Due to irresponsible tourists lighting fires in the park, much of this part of the trek had been devastated and destroyed by forest fires. Notably more windy due to the lack of protection from trees, it looks like a graveyard of dead plants and forest life.
W Circuit | Patagonia | Torres del Paine
It's much more windy on this side of the park.
Reaching Paine Grande, I was relieved to put my big backpack down for the last time. Tomorrow I would be hiking my longest day yet, with my day pack in hand.
Valle Frances
As far as refugio's go, Paine Grande was the worst of them all, with disgusting, clogged up and dirty bathrooms. The rooms were clean and definitely nice to sleep in. But the staff were indifferent and just not helpful. Probably my only complaint of the W Circuit.
Mirador Britanico
Day 5: Paine Grande to the second suspension bridge with views over Glacier Grey
The hardest day of the 5 days and the longest distance I have ever hiked. I began the 32.5km at 6:30am with the aim of being back to catch the 6:30pm catamaran.
A cloudy, drizzly and windy morning, I powered my way through the morning fuelled by a granola bar and stopping once to fill up my water bottle. At the first lookout point, I had my first glimpse of a glacier.
Stopping for a few photos, I headed onto the first suspension bridge...
And then the second!
Whoop whoop!
I don't think words can describe the elation I felt 4 and a half hours later. Eating some much needed lunch, I spent about an hour admiring the glacier and running along the bridge.
And then it was time to head back. The skies cleared up, the sun shone and before I knew it I was sweating the entire way back.
If Patagonia does one thing, it'll surprise you. And just like that, I headed back to Puerto Natales on a beautiful day with the biggest grin and sorest feet ever!
Glacier Grey
So is it worth it?
I paid over $1000 for the experience of a lifetime. No regrets about that.
But is it worth $1000?
If I'm going to be honest, I found Torres del Paine over commercialised, especially when you consider that hiking in neighbouring El Chalten is practically free.
Faced with the opportunity to hike the W Circuit last minute, I took it. Who knows when I would have had the opportunity again. Would I pay that much again? For a solo and unguided hike, probably not.
At the same time, my backpack was as light as a feather! I came back from each trek, had a hot shower and a lovely bed to sleep in every night. I'm not much of a camper and didn't fancy having to learn to put up my own tent every night in the middle of Patagonia.
I was hiking 20-35km a day and would arrive at my next destination pretty much exhausted. So I'm definitely glad I went with the fully made bed option with a hot shower and all meals included!
For a novice hiker, it can be nerve-racking doing a trek like the W-Circuit. I'm really happy I went for it!
Information about doing the trek
If you're spending a night or two in Puerto Natales before the trek, I'd highly recommend heading over to Erratic Rock at 3 pm for a talk about everything you need to know about hiking in Torres del Paine. The information they give is invaluable for the hike, not to mention they have some really good quality rental equipment.
Planning a trip or fancy a freebie? These are some websites and services I love:
Booking.com: For the best hotel deals! 🏝
World Nomads: Travel insurance on the go 🌎
Airbnb: For the best apartment deals!🏡
Affiliate links above!
YOU'LL ALSO LOVE
Like this post? Pin it for later...
